Advanced Arrow Construction Rules

By Isaac X-S.

Arrowhead Types

Target	Blunt	Bifurcated
Broad-Tipped	Bodkin	Whistling
Barbed	Armor Piercing (Needle Bodkin)	Cage Fire

Target: The “standard” arrowhead type; a common field point. Short, small and effective. It is typically cut directly from the shaft (such an arrow is known as a self arrow).

Broad-Tipped: This arrowhead has a diameter that generally exceeds the shaft’s diameter by roughly 1 to 3 inches. Broad-Tipped arrows are the largest of the arrowhead types and are quite damaging, often being able to punch holes straight through flesh and armor. They come in a variety of styles and can be combined with the “barbed” feature. Does +1D6 damage. Broad-Tipped heads cannot be field points.

Barbed: An arrowhead with serrated edges or jagged cutting edges and rearward points designed to catch flesh and cause grievous injury upon removal. A barbed arrow is no more damaging than a standard arrow if the head strikes and passes completely through its target. However, if the arrowhead is halted in mid-body then extracting it is very difficult, not to mention painful. When removing a barbed arrowhead from someone’s flesh, apply the damage originally done by the arrow a second time. This means it effectively does double damage. Barbed arrowheads cannot be field points.

Blunt: A blunt arrow has a rounded or flattened head for reduced penetration. It is a form of non-lethal missile that can be used for scaring away animal predators, riot control, and apprehending outlaws alive. However, a lack of cutting edges does not mean being shot by a blunt arrow is a painless experience. Blunt arrows often strike with enough force to leave bruises or break bones. A well placed shot to the back of someone’s head usually results in unconsciousness, which is why this type of arrowhead is favored by domestic law enforcers. All damage from a blunt arrowhead is Impact damage. If on an aimed/called shot to the head the damage exceeds the base S.D.C. (regardless of current S.D.C.), the victim is automatically knocked out. A blunt arrowhead does damage equal to a field point.

Armor Piercing: The Needle Bodkin, also known as an armor piercing arrowhead, is a long, narrow head with a highly needle-like point. It is specifically designed with the purpose of penetrating all types of conventional body armor, especially chain mail. Armor Piercing arrows do +4 damage to chain mail, but do no extra damage against other types of body armor. Against all armor in general, AP arrows effectively negate the Thrust RF. However, the needle bodkin arrowhead must be made of metal for it to possess the above armor piercing capability. Non-metal needle bodkins have no special effect against Thrust RF, though it will still do +3 damage to chain mail. Base damage is equal to a field point.

Bifurcated: Also known as a “Frog-Crotch”, “Fishtail” or “Forked” arrowhead, the head is crescent or “Y” shaped with the points extending outward on either side. The cutting edge is usually located inside the “v” groove of the head, though sometimes all the edges can be designed to cut. Bifurcated arrowheads are most commonly used as rope cutters, specifically to slice through ship’s rigging, climbing cords, and other archers’ bow strings. Damage from a bifurcated arrowhead counts as Thrust and Cut damage. When shooting at a suit of armor with this kind of arrowhead, always apply damage to the lowest of the two Resistance Factors. +2 strike and +2 damage when targeting ropes and cords. Bifurcated arrowheads are always flat leaf in design. Any bifurcated heads that aren’t flat leaf lose their bonuses against ropes. Frog-Crotches cannot be field points, obviously.

Whistling: This is a large blunt arrowhead that has been hollowed out in order to create a sound chamber, with four to six holes then bored into it. These holes cause the arrow to emit a high pitched whistle as it flies through the air. Whistling arrows are not killing arrows. Rather, they are used to signal others from a distance or to scare opponents. The arrowhead can be made from metal or wood, though brass is the most commonly used material. Striking someone with this type of arrowhead does Impact damage equal to a field point. However, it is possible to augment a whistling arrowhead by attaching another arrowhead type on top of it, allowing the arrow to double as an killing arrow. Note that such a tactic is not widely practiced because it generally unbalances the arrow and increases its weight (-1 to strike, reduce range by 25%).

Bodkin: Regular bodkins fall in between target and broad-tipped arrowheads. They are slightly larger and more damaging than the standard arrowhead and have relatively good penetration. Though needle bodkins are particularly good for piercing armor, specifically chain mail, regular bodkins are also fairly effective at punching through plate armor. A bodkin does +3 damage against all forms of body armor except plate, against which it does +5 damage. They cannot be field points, though small enough bodkins will do equivalent base damage. Bodkins do not generally use the flat leaf design.

Cage Fire: This type of arrowhead acts as a cage for holding flammable materials. These materials are commonly cotton, wood, or dried grass, possibly soaked in oil. Once ignited, the arrow can be used to set ablaze various targets from a distance, such as wooden structures, straw huts, forests, oil fields, etc. The advantage to using cage fire arrowheads as opposed to simply wrapping a normal arrowhead in flammable material is that the arrowhead can hold more, is more aerodynamic, and once retrieved, can be reused. Though cage fire arrowheads are large, they lack the penetration of most broad-tipped arrows. Consequently, damage from the arrowhead is equivalent to a standard three or four-bladed head, in addition to whatever damage is inflicted by fire. Cage fires are always made of metal.

Arrowhead Designs

The shape and design of an arrowhead determine the base amount of damage it can inflict. Unless stated otherwise, all arrows inflict Thrust damage when they hit. Tri and Quad-bladed arrowheads are wider, and have more cutting planes and points so as to provide more damage. Note that, while it is possible to have arrowheads with more that four bladed edges, such a thing is not practical. The amount of damage one can achieve with a base arrowhead design peaks at four blades. Adding more points and edges increases damage negligibly, and may even serve to decrease penetration due to increased surface area.

Flat Leaf: Triangular arrowhead with a wide, flat profile and two edges meeting at a sharp point. Also called two-bladed. 1D6+2 base damage.

Three Blade: Refers to a pyramidal arrowhead with three cross-sectional edges meeting at a sharp point. Diameter of the arrowhead usually exceeds the diameter of the shaft. 1D6+4 base damage.

Four Blade: Refers to a pyramidal arrowhead with four cross-sectional edges meeting at a sharp point. Diameter of the arrowhead usually exceeds the diameter of the shaft. 2D6 base damage.

Field Points: The diameter of a field point never surpasses the diameter of the shaft. This arrowhead has no edges, but instead tapers into a conical point. The term “field point” pertains specifically to target arrowheads; they are one and the same. The damage infliction is 1D6 base damage. A field point can either be cut directly from the material of the shaft or, in the case of using a different material for the arrowhead, capped in said material.

Arrowhead Materials

Stone: Arrowheads can be made of various types of stone: flint, obsidian, and granite being the most common. Most types of stone used for arrowhead making are fairly light weight but still affect distance. Arrows with stone arrowheads only travel ¾ of their normal range. This makes stone arrowheads the cheapest to buy.

Wood: This is the standard material used for arrowheads. Typically, no bonuses or penalties apply. However, there are certain rare types of wood that do extra damage when used for arrowheads, generally due to extraordinary strength and density. Ironwood and Yellow wood are two such types. Arrowheads made of Ironwood inflict an extra +1D6 damage. Arrowheads made of Yellow wood inflict an extra +2 damage.

Horn & Bone: Animal or monster parts are often an acceptable alternative to wood. Depending on the creature, an arrowhead of bone or horn can be inferior to wood or as effective as metal. Certain beasts have ultra dense horns and bones that would be excellent for arrowhead making, though acquiring the material may be difficult for obvious reasons. Supernatural creatures such as dragons, Pegasus, demons, unicorns, etc, have magically resilient bone and horn. Arrowheads made of a supernatural creature’s parts are usually light weight, more damaging, and more durable. See the list of properties for supernatural bone and horn.

Metal: Metal arrowheads are very effective. They generally do more damage but most are small enough so that weight is negligibly affected. However, reduce arrow range by 75 feet when using three or four-bladed metal broad-tipped arrowheads and 40 feet if using metal bodkins or four-bladed cage fires. Different types of metal can be used, steel, iron and lead being most common. Silver arrowheads are common for those who battle werebeasts and vampires. Metal arrowheads don’t dull or break as easily as wooden arrowheads. They receive a +1D4 to damage if iron or lead, and +1D6 if steel.

Shaft Designs

Standard: An ordinary arrow shaft with the same thickness from end to end.

Barrel Tapered: An arrow shaft thickest in the center that tapers down on both ends. Sometimes used for distance shooting to lighten the arrow without reducing spine. Barrel Tapered arrows receive +70 ft. to range.

Bob-Tailed: An arrow shaft that is thickest beginning at the arrowhead, and tapering toward the arrownock. No particular affect on arrow performance.

Breasted: An arrow shaft where the last 7 to 10 inches of the nocked end (the breast) is tapered in order to improve flight characteristics. Especially good for use with longbows. +50 feet to range along with improved trajectory.

Fluted: An arrow shaft with deep scoring and grooves that make it lighter, allowing it to travel farther. +30 ft. to range.

Footed: An arrow with a hardwood piece joined to the point end, or foot, of the arrow shaft, by means of inlay work, to give the arrow greater durability and better balance. The footing helps to strengthen the arrow where breakage most commonly occurs, at the point. +15 S.D.C. to Durability.

Shaft Length and Size

Arrow shafts made for human-sized creatures generally range in length from 18 to 25 inches for short bows and 26 to 34 inches for longbows. Length has no actual effect on the penetration of an arrow. However, arrow length is important in relation to the type and size of the bow. A general rule of thumb is the larger the bow, the longer the arrow must be. Using an arrow of that is too long or too short for one’s bow is disadvantageous at best. The length of the arrow must correspond to the length of the bow according to a certain ratio. For every 0.1 meter discrepancy between the bow’s size in relation to the arrow length, the arrow will receive a -2 to strike. Use the below chart to determine appropriate penalties.

Generally, arrow shafts are 10 mm in diameter. However, it is possible to get arrows with larger shafts that do more damage. These so-called “war arrows” are about 12.5 to 13 mm in diameter. Arrowheads for these types of shafts are also proportionally adjusted in size. This may not seem like a sizable difference, but it is enough for the arrow to do an additional +1D6 damage. War arrows are subject to all the modifications and limitations available to standard arrows.

Bow Length to Arrow Length Chart
1.0 m bow = 18-19 inch arrow (0.46-0.48 m)
1.1 m bow = 19-20 inch arrow (0.48-0.50 m)
1.2 m bow = 20-22 inch arrow (0.50-0.56 m)
1.3 m bow = 22-24 inch arrow (0.56-0.61 m)
1.4 m bow = 24-25 inch arrow (0.61-0.64 m)
1.5 m bow = 26-27 inch arrow (0.66-0.69 m)
1.6 m bow = 27-28 inch arrow (0.69-0.71 m)
1.7 m bow = 28-29 inch arrow (0.71-0.74 m)
1.8 m bow = 29-30 inch arrow (0.74-0.76 m)
1.9 m bow = 30-31 inch arrow (0.76-0.79 m)
2.0 m bow = 31-32 inch arrow (0.79-0.81 m)
2.1 m bow = 32-33 inch arrow (0.81-0.84 m)
2.2 m bow = 33-34 inch arrow (0.84-0.86 m)

Shaft Materials (Shaftment)

Wood types classified as “hard” are difficult to break and receive a durability of 20 S.D.C.

Wood types classified as “moderately hard” receive a durability of 10 S.D.C.

Wood types classified as “soft” are fairly easy to break and receive a durability of only 5 S.D.C.

The following is a list of woods commonly used in arrow making. It should be noted that this is a brief list, and many other types of wood are used that are not mentioned here.

Types of Wood:

Hard	Moderately Hard	Soft
Ash Elm Ironwood (Impact RF 12, 50 S.D.C.) Juniper Lemonwood Maple Oak Rosewood Yellow Wood (Impact RF 10, 45 S.D.C.) Yew	Alder Birch Cedar Cypress Hickory Mahogany Pine Spruce Willow	Fir Sycomore (light weight, +1 strike)

Horn and Bone, as stated in the arrowhead materials section, are viable materials in arrow construction. Shafts of horn or bone provide additional bonuses when the materials are harvested from supernatural creatures. This is due to the creature’s magical/supernatural nature. Their bones and horns tend to be light weight, ultra dense, and magically active. Consequently, these materials can add a variety of enhancements to the arrow. Bone or horn from “mundane” animals or even intelligent non-supernatural creatures (i.e. other humanoids) is comparable to moderately hard wood (though GMs should use their discretion, due to size and shape considerations of bone). For a list of properties for supernatural bone and horn arrows, consult the list below.

Metals such as steel are generally not used for arrow shafts. The first reason is because of the increased weight (they only travel a third of the distance, but are still effective for close range shots). The second reason is more complicated. Arrows possess a specific trait called spine. Spine is a measure of the stiffness of an arrow’s shaft. This stiffness, in relation to the arrow’s length, bow type and arrowhead weight, among other variables, determines how well the arrow can fly through the air. Arrow shafts that are too stiff or not stiff enough are simply not good arrows and will suffer from a wide range of problems (decreased range, inaccuracy, flawed release from the bow, etc.). Most metals tend to be too inflexible for use as shafts.

Dwarves, being the master craftsmen that they are, can make arrows with metal shafts light enough for use and flexible enough for the arrow’s spine to not be adversely affected. However, these arrows cost 500% to 600% above market value. Alchemists can also make magically light weight and flexible metal-shafted arrows. These arrows can be made from various metals, though steel is most commonly used. Metal-shafted arrows usually have a Durability of 60-90 S.D.C. each.

Fletch Length

Fletches are the feathers located at the end of an arrow. They can range in length from 1 ¼ inches to 6 inches. The length of an arrow’s fletches affect the distance and speed of the arrow. Arrows with short fletches (1.25 to 3.0 inches) fly faster, giving the arrow a +1 to damage. Arrows with long fletches (3.1 to 6.0 inches) give the arrow +1 to strike..

Number of Fletches

The number of fletches on an arrow can range from one to four, though three is, by far, the most widely used. On three fletch arrows, each feather is set 120 degrees apart to allow for bow clearance. One of the three fletches is a cock feather, while the remaining two are hen feathers. The cock feather is the fletch that is positioned perpendicular to the bow when the arrow is nocked. It is also known as the index feather and is generally a different color from the hen feathers. One, two and four fletch arrows have no designated cock feathers to speak of. Consequently, they cannot be misnocked.

Fletches serve to stabilize the arrow; the more fletches, the straighter and farther the arrow flies. They can be acquired from the wing feathers of a variety of large birds; goose, eagle, turkey and hawk being most common. All feathers must be taken from the same wing. Using left-wing and right-wing feathers on the same arrow will result in poor flight. However, it should be noted that more than two fletches on an arrow can adversely affect its elliptical trajectory, sacrificing altitude for a level flight path (penalties are at the GM’s discretion). In addition, more than three feathers will cause a dramatic increase in drag, which in turn will affect arrow performance. Certain supernatural creatures possess feathers that, if used as fletches, can give arrows special properties. Refer to the Supernatural Properties table below.

One Fletch: Mono-fletch arrows have relatively unstable flights, but are reliable enough for close range use. Reduce range by 50% after all other range modifiers. -1 to strike.

Two Fletches: Dual-fletch arrows are relatively more stable than one fletch arrows but still don’t have the range of three fletch arrows. Reduce range by 10%.

Three Fletches: Tri-fletch arrows are the most popular types with good overall stability, accuracy, and fair trajectory. They are standard issue for most military archers.

Four Fletches: Quad-fletch arrows have each feather spaced about 75-102 degrees apart to allow for bow clearance. This amount of fletching creates a lot of drag at the back of the arrow. Consequently, the arrow does a 1D6 less damage in the first 40 yards of flight, after which point it rapidly drops from the air.

Fletch Shapes

Fletches are very important for arrows. They serve to create a little bit of drag at the rear end of the arrow which stabilizes its flight. Without fletches, an arrow simply could not fly straight. The number of fletches on an arrow and the length of each fletch significantly affect an arrow’s performance. However, the shape of an arrow fletch does next to nothing. In reality, fletch shapes are just a matter of personal preference, though flu-flus can serve a specific purpose. The various fletch shapes are achieved through the use of cutting blades or hot wires. Note that it is common for fletches to be colorful, which helps in locating lost arrows.

Tribal: A fletch shape common to many tribes of the Yin-Sloth Jungles. Similar to the straight fletch, in that the rear edge follows the natural shape of the feather’s barbs. However, the leading edge is cut or burned to form a triangle.

Straight: The simplest fletch shape where both the leading and trailing edges follow the barbs of the vanes, and the edge of the feather is cut or burned parallel to form a parallelogram.

Eastern: A fletch shape used predominantly by archers of the Eastern Territory. The rear edge follows the barbs of the vanes of the feather. The leading edge is cut or burnt somewhat rounded, sloping smoothly toward the head of the arrow.

Shield: Also known as the Swineback, this is a fletch shape where leading edge is smoothly sloped toward the arrowhead (like the Eastern type), but the trailing edge is sloped against the barbs of the vanes. This makes each feather shaped like one-half of a knight's shield.

Parabolic: A fletch shape where there is a smooth, bowl-shaped (parabolic) curve from front to back.

Flu Flu: A broad, high fletch shape designed to slow an arrow rapidly after the first 30 yards, or so, and cause it to drop quickly. This is a good type of fletch to use on practice arrows or when one wants to feint an attack. Drag is increased by using four feathers, mounting them in a spiral pattern, and splitting the vanes. Arrows with flu-flu fletching do 2D6 less damage.

Nocks

An arrownock is the slot at the end of the arrow into which the bowstring fits. Most arrownocks are relatively the same in size and design. They can be made of a separate material than the shaftment, or they can be “self-nocks” which are cut directly from the material of the shaft. This has no actual bearing on game mechanics. Most nocks are approximately 3/8 of an inch deep and it is a common practice to reinforce a softwood arrow with an inlay of hardwood as the nock. However, bowstrings that are considerably thicker or thinner than 3/8 of an inch will require arrows with specially designed nocks suited for their unusual widths (most arrows are made for use by bows with 3/8 inch thick strings, the standard bowstring thickness).

Special Features for Arrows

Cresting: These are colorful markings placed on the shaft of the arrow. They serve to make a lost arrow easier to find and can also be used to denote who the arrow belongs to. Noble archers sometimes mark their arrows with very ornate cresting that can be read like heraldry. The cost of cresting depends on its detail.

Greco: This is a special moisture repellant copper solution that can be applied to wooden arrowheads and shafts. Arrows coated in Greco will not rot in humid environments or suffer water damage. This solution is fairly common and easy to buy. Anyone with the Fletching skill will know how to make Greco.

Fletch Dry: This is a white alchemical dry powder that is mixed with alcohol until it turns into a thin paste. A very fine layer is then applied to each fletch of one’s arrows and allowed to dry for a few hours. The fletches become waterproof for the next 2D4 days. They will shed water, won’t becoming distorted when wet, and won’t absorb humidity. Fletch Dry adds virtually no weight to the arrow and doesn’t stiffen the barbs of the feather.

Interchangeable Arrowheads and Shaft: A shaft with an impermanent mount that allows different arrowheads to be taken off and fastened on. The advantage to this is obvious. The archer can use one shaft for multiple purposes by simply changing the arrowhead to better suit the situation. Rather than buy bundles of full arrows, the character can buy one of these special shafts and various complimentary arrowheads. There are four types of mounts on the shaft into which the arrowhead can be fastened. Each type of mount requires special arrowheads with compatible bases so that they can be connected.

1. Tapered mounts consist of a thin point which is inserted into a tapered hole at the base of the arrowhead.

2. Tennon mounts or “slide-in” mounts are small holes or grooves cut into the end of the shaft into which the base of the arrowhead (a long thin rod or flat insert) can be slide inside.

3. Slide-On mounts are just what they sound like, mounts in which the arrowhead slides tightly over the full diameter of the shaft.

4. Screw mounts require that the arrowhead is screwed into the shaft. The base of the arrowhead is a short, protruding rod threaded like a screw. The hole that forms the mount of the shaft is also threaded inside.

Speed Nock: This is a special arrownock that allows for the arrow to be nocked quickly and without error. +1 to initiative.

Bonuses from Masterful Craftsmenship

Bows made by master bowyers or arrows made by master fletchers will impart certain bonuses due to the sheer craftsmanship of the work. These modifiers are added on top of all others. The definition of a master is anyone 15th level or higher in their chosen field. Such an accomplished individual is quite rare.

Arrows made by a master fletcher receive a +2 to strike, +2 to damage, and +50 ft. to range.

Bows made by a master bowyer receive a +2 to damage with arrows and +15 S.D.C. to Durability.

Dwarven and Elven Manufactured Bows and Arrows

Dwarves make the best equipment in the world. They are blacksmiths and craftsmen without peer. Yet, though dwarven weapons are, overall, superior to most elven weapons, elves excel in the area of bows and arrows. Dwarves don’t have a great deal of experience crafting bows and arrows as their race historically prefers to use close range melee weapons. However, due to their sheer skill and craftsmanship, they can still make devastating archery equipment. Elven crafted archery equipment tends to be lighter, more accurate, and farther reaching than dwarven equivalents. Still, bows and arrows of either make are expensive and hard to procure.

The added weight to the arrow from each increase in Durability is negligible and does not factor in.

If Dwarven made, add 1 lbs. to the short bow's weight for each increase in Durability and 2 lbs. to the long bow's weight for each in crease in Durability.

Kobold and Jotan Manufactured Bows and Arrows

All Kobold and Jotan made weapons are of excellent quality and craftsmanship, second only to Dwarves. This extends to bows and arrows, though elves have also surpassed them in this area.

The added weight to the arrow from each increase in Durability is negligible and does not factor in.

Add 2 lbs. to the short bow's weight for each increase in Durability. Add 3 lbs. to the long bow's weight for each increase in Durability.

Price List for Arrows

1 gold piece = 3 silver pieces or 10 bronze/brass pieces
1 lbs. of gold = 2500 gold pieces

Note:

• Triple the price for yellow wood arrowheads and quadruple the price for ironwood arrowheads.
• Stone is predominately used by archers of the Yin-Sloth Jungles and many of the monster races, specifically orcs, goblins, ogres, and troglodytes.
• The horn and bone prices above are from animals of a non-supernatural nature common to Palladia. These prices will change when working with horn and/or bone from exotic or supernatural creatures.

Example 1: An arrow with a target/field point arrowhead made of wood (cut from the shaft), a standard 24 inch oak shaft, and three short fletches (an arrow design that is quick and easy to construct and very common) would cost 8 bronze/brass (1D6 Thrust Damage). A dozen of which will cost roughly 10 gold. A dozen of these arrows made for a longbow would cost roughly 20 gold.

Example 2: ???

Example 3: ???